Sewing, Trouble-Shooting, Vintage

Sewing: Trouble Shooting

Any experienced sewers out there who might be able to help?  I made this vintage style dress a while ago and had a problem with the skirt.  Having discussed it with my mum, we decided that I must have cut it out inaccurately, so I decided to unpick the front skirt, carefully cut out another one (thankfully I had enough fabric left) and re-attach it.

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You can see the pattern layout – I cut one front skirt on the fold and the centre front measures longer than the side front.  However, when I try the dress on, the centre front is considerably shorter!  How can than be?  Here are a few photos of it.  Firstly, it all laid out on the floor so you can see the full skirt, then one of it hanging up – you can see that the centre is shorter.  I have written to Eliza Vintage to ask their advice and they suggested that there may be a fault on the pattern printing.  They will refund the pattern cost if I send it back.  But I want a dress I can wear.  And, I don’t like to be beaten by anything!

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What are your thoughts on how to rescue it?  I could try to measure the hem from the floor up – it will mean a slightly shorter skirt, but I can live with that I think!  As the skirt is so full, any advice on how best to measure the hem to make it straight?

Thank you sewers!

Lyn x

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4 thoughts on “Sewing: Trouble Shooting

  1. Pingback: Weekend Sewing: Finished Vintage-Stylie Dress | Lyn Bromley at First Impressions

  2. Olivia Keating says:

    This is a radical solution, but it will work. Carefully cut the extra fabric you have on the same grain as the bottom of the skirt. Make your strip a little wider than necessary. Since your fabric is so busy, and the skirt so full, you can sew a “filler” to the shorter hemline. Press toward the bottom and trim the same length as the rest of the hem. It will be completely unnoticeable. Olivia Keating, Omaha, Nebraska

  3. This dress has a circle skirt. The CF line goes down the grain – the strongest way. The side seam is on the cross grain, the weaker grain. The area of the skirt that sits half way between the two is on the bias – the stretchiest part of the grain.

    You have discovered how different the grain behaves through making this dress (and had you made Grace’s circular skirt with a woven you would have had the same issue). The only solution is the one you mention – hang the dress up for a day or so to let the grain relax into the places it will sit, then measure it evenly from the floor up (best to do this with you wearing it and someone else doing the measuring).

    I hope this helps. Doesn’t look like a problem with the pattern – if you measure the pattern it should be even all around like your own circle skirt pattern. The pattern instructions should have warned you about this issue.

    Hope this helps. And if you ever want excellent trouble shooting try Sewing Forum.co.uk or Artisan’s Square which is an American site. The members are very supportive and generous with their time. Also the UK one has local meet up in your locality – which might be fun.

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